Dalmatian delights

 Our last destination report had us berthed in charming Mali Losinj’s central harbour. In the few weeks since that stop, we’ve anchored in several peaceful bays including Molat and Dugi Otok islands, and also lucked out with the weather for a stunning day to cruise by the rocky yet somehow mystical national park islands of Kornati. We stopped a night at Murter where the boat had been on the hardstand for two weeks back in early March – just to dine on the infamous fish soup and steak and mushrooms from Kezo Restaurant which we’d been dreaming of since we'd left. A few nights were also berthed in Sibenik marina – where we’d originally taken possession of the boat. Here we feasted on mussels and hunkered down an extra day to avoid forecast wind gusts of sixty knots. It was then onto Primosten and Trogir – where we’d also visited two months prior and the streets were practically deserted at the time. But summer season is on the brink and the narrow cobblestone pathways have quickly become a squeeze with tour groups and wooden live aboard gulet cruisers tied up at the promenades. After toasting an early seventieth birthday celebration for our guest Aunty Robyn, we bid farewell as she departed (fittingly) with suitcase loaded in the dinghy enroute to Split Airport. 

Below is a collection of photos from the last few weeks – including another new sail out from the wardrobe (a spinnaker), more seafood feasts (that slab of caught-this-morning tuna sashimi coast the equivalent of about A$1.80 - wowza!) and Mike’s new fishing rod (hope to catch our own soon) toy.

 

Dad gave mum and I a slight fright when he decided to take a much closer look at an abandoned Cold War submarine bunker. It’s understood they were located at strategic points of defence for Tito’s powerful Yugoslav Navy and could fit two submarines end-to-end. This was one of three bunkers along a small stretch of coast on Dugi Otok. They would have once been camouflaged with heavy nets covering the full height of the entrance and serviced by dozens of crew for maintenance and refuelling – evidence of which could be seen from the network of rooms and chambers disappearing off into the walls of the bunker. Whilst the camera flash helps here to show through to the end of the tunnel – the naked eye could not see far past the eerie darkness.  Amazing how they still sit in perfect condition and free to inspect – not boarded up or covered with no trespassing signage.   

  

For the next few days we are now berthed at ACI Split Marina – a short walk from the historical, walled town centre and palm lined promenade. Dad has a number of maintenance projects and tradesmen lined up here – including sail bag and bimini repairs, new covers made for our BBQ and trike, electrical wiring of the solar panels and additional fabrication deliveries from Vlad in Zagreb. He’s also part way through adding shelving and re-arranging storage compartments around the boat. We wonder when he’ll run out of projects and sit back to totally relax and enjoy the fruits of his labour. But for those of you who know dad, well that will likely never happen!

The most noteworthy anchorage recently was alongside the village of Skradin – which required motoring seven kilmotres down Krka River and under two bridges – one of which the mast only cleared by about six metres. It appears nail bitingly close when witnessed from sea level, but no better way to see the marginal clearance then from atop the mast in the boson’s chair – Mike’s Go Pro footage to follow soon! Skradin is where swans visited regularly (as per my last post) and the main attraction was the impossibly striking cascades and waterfalls of Krka National Park located a few kilometres upstream. Will leave you with a handful of the (far too many) photos taken from this enchanted sanctuary. 

With now only one month remaining on our Croatian visitor visas, we will be sure to soak up all that we love about this beautifully diverse country before moving onto Montenegro, Albania and then Greece.