What a difference a week makes! With the end of summer officially
drawing closer, the seasonal Meltemi
wind may well be on its way out for the year. Our first few weeks in the
Cyclades were sailing strong northerly winds, rolling seas and holding on tight
in gusty anchorages. These past handful of days could not be any greater
contrast. We do love to sail, but also feel blessed to now experience the
gem-like Cycladic Islands in all their magic, shimmering glory. Motoring is fortunately only
short distances between the more cozily situated group of islands consisting of Antiparos,
Paros, Naxos and the Little Cyclades. There has been zero ocean swell, glassed
out seas and we can anchor in whichever emerald green bay appeals, with less
regard for the weather or wind which has blown lightly from every different
direction, rather than the dominant northerly.
Nevertheless, we are on the go regularly – keen to visit as many
islands as time allows – while still taking the time to explore old towns and
historic sites. As well as to swim, sunbathe and swill beers alongside the
locals who are also squeezing every last drop out of their summer vacations.
The chill summertime vibe is running deep! And one of the best things about a
Greek summer? Guaranteed sunshine every single day of the week. Apart from a
sudden afternoon lightning storm off Corfu Island when we arrived in Greece two
months ago, we have not seen a single drop of rain since. Even clouds are a
rare sight. The trade off is barren, dry islands – but in exchange for that endless
sunshine, I’ll take it!
The Cyclades' iconic whitewash cubism architecture is striking and
one of the most enjoyable elements of a visit to this region. Whilst we
generally end up anchored off a sunny beach or moored quayside in a busy commercial
port, we almost always seek out a visit – by bus, or hike or scooter – to the
main town ‘chora’ or old town ‘kastro’. Plati Yialos beach on Sifnos Island was a
buzzing though relaxed resort area with lazing bronzed Greeks and Italians,
sedated by the sun. A wander around the narrow lanes of the old kastro on
Sifnos was a pleasant way to waste away another afternoon – gazing upon a
dramatic church surrounded by crashing waves, devouring frappes and crepes with
mountain vistas and scratching the chins of snoozing cats.
Antiparos or ‘little Paros’ was an absolute delight, reminding us much
of the stylish Fiscardo port on Kefalonia Island in the Ionians. If one were
plotting a Greek island-hopping itinerary, we’d highly recommend this as a
quaint, attractive destination to waste away a
few days. Psaraliki Beach could easily fill an afternoon of swimming,
sunbathing and reading (as we did). Then snoozing under the beach’s shady
tamarisk trees once your skin begins to sizzle. Next head to Sunset Deseo bar for sunset drinks with a cool crowd and afterwards back to
the main stroll for people watching and cocktails under the breezy
bougainvillea. Refreshingly there is barely a breath of English to be heard
amongst the Greek, Italian and sprinkling of German holidaymakers. We are regretting
not ever having taken up the sport of kiteboarding as the waters around these
parts offer perfect wind conditions and flat turquoise waters. Never before
have we seen so many kiteboarders together in one place, with no less than
fifty kites in the air simultaneously in the narrow stretch of ocean between Paros and
Antiparos Islands. Unfortunately I don’t have any daytime photos of Antiparos to share – as too much
time was spent lazing at the beach – just some scenes on dusk and full moon from our
rock wall mooring with lines ashore.
When expecting guests, a spin-off benefit is the motivation to give
the boat and interior a deep clean and finally tackle certain projects that
have taken a back seat on the list of priorities. That task was re-varnishing
the sun-bleached teak on the back deck, table, sugar scoop steps and passarole
(gangway). The guys tackled it over a number of days, including deserting ship
for extended afternoons at a time to allow the back deck to dry between
different coats. The teak is looking schmicko!
And when dismantling the back deck table, which includes an
extendable centerpiece insert that we’ve never used, we found ourselves a new
mini teak table which is a perfect fit for the bow lounge area! Admittedly
we’ve had a few issues with the newly varnished sugar scoop steps which when
wet can become dangerously slippery. Both Mike and I have gone down like a sack
of potatoes on separate occasions. Thus we are currently devising a plan to add
something under the final coat that will provide some added traction – as mum or
dad making the same slip may involve more than just a few cursed words.
As if it couldn’t be possible,
each new island, town or bay we’ve encountered over the past week has been a
surprise and brought a new favourite – could the Cyclades really get any
better?! Paros Town on Paros Island, only a short distance from Antiparos,
provided a peaceful sheltered anchorage. Stepping a few streets back from the
bustling ferry port unveiled a charming labyrinth of narrow cobblestone alleys
filled with boutiques, cafes, restaurants and characterful bars. Arguably the
best burger we’ve ever eaten was from the locally famous Nick’s burger joint.
Burgers the size of your head, dripping BBQ sauce and onion rings stuffed
inside! Worth seeking out if you ever make your way there.
Northeastern Paros Island is the setting for
what must be one of the prettiest fishing villages in all of Greece. Naousa has
rightly so become a highlight day trip outing for visitors from Paros Town,
though still functions as a productive fishing port. Octopuses hang from every
rafter, tenderizing in
the midday sun in preparation for serving at the many under-the-stars tavernas
that line the baby harbour. Our first visit to Naousa was a scooter exploration
day of Paros Island, when I rode my own solo scooter for the first time! We
next returned with the boat to anchor across in the neighbouring bay of Ormos
Ay Loannou. Perhaps aided by the gorgeous calm weather, but this was easily one
of our favourite anchorages in the Cyclades. Should the fiercest Meltemi choose to blow again, we were
told this is also the best protected anchorage in the region due to the slim
line of high rock encircling the bay, and dozens of yachts can be found huddled
here in such conditions. Fortunately it was tranquil the few nights we spent here
and the only rocking was from swell off the passing water sports boats.
Below is a pictorial taste of Naousa –
currently our new fav gem in the Cyclades!
We’d not seen many super yachts during our first few weeks in the
Cyclades, likely due to uncomfortable, howling Meltemi winds and associated rough seas. Though with magic
sparkling sea conditions – there have been plenty of big daddys about and we
shared Ioannou bay with several multi-squillion dollar yachts and their toys,
where crew often outnumber guests. Whilst definitely not the biggest we’ve seen
– our favourite was our closest neighbour Ice
Angel – she was one sexy boat! Unfortunately I didn’t Google details of the
boat until I was penning this blog post. Turns out the yacht belongs to Steven
Spielberg – we were in the presence of film royalty and didn’t even know
it!
Whilst this yacht is likely kept for the sole use of Spielberg and
his friends, most of these charter yachts rent for upwards of 200,000 euro per week and that does NOT include food
or drinks. Imagine forking out quarter of a million for one week’s holiday that
doesn’t even include an open bar!
It was in this bay that dad broke a thirty-year drought to show he
still knows how to single ski and age is no barrier for our ol’ Navy vet who cheerfully
claims this is the healthiest he’s felt in decades!
Next door to Paros, Naxos Island is the largest, most mountainous
and fertile island in all the Cyclades. A hire car drive into the landlocked
rocky mountains was a change from the endless blue horizons that have become a consistent
part of our lives this year.
We had anchored under the ruins of Apollo’s temple, God of music, light,
sun, truth and healing; and conveniently alongside the Naxos ferry wharf where
we were to collect our much-anticipated guests! Jay and Deanne (D) are our very
dear friends from Whistler, Canada. Mike and Jay are childhood best mates,
after school moving to Whistler together in 1998, and we were honoured to have
them both with us at our Fiji wedding last year – Jay as best man. We are all beyond
thrilled to be sharing part of this adventure with them and also that they’ve
arrived in the midst of the loveliest weather we’ve seen all month. Both
glassed out bays and mild winds sufficient enough for some gentle sailing to
ease them in!
Given we loved it so much, we cruised the short distance back across
to Paros Island and Naousa to give Jay and D a sweet taste of Greece life and
scenery for their first full day. Anchored again in Ioannou bay for the afternoon
before mooring in Naoussa marina, back alongside Aussie friends the Maunders
family on Dominos to wish Viv a happy
60th birthday. Some bar hopping and boozy drinks followed and all in
all a fun night (including one in the party falling in the drink)!
We are now lazily making our way around the sparsely populated
island group collectively known as the Little Cyclades. A place that time
forgot and has even today avoided the impact of tourism development. These are
the places we are especially thankful to visit on our own boat as getting
around to the remote bays and beaches as an independent traveller would be
particularly time consuming or otherwise impossible.
The tranquility here is mesmerizing. A recent late night swim
discovered there had been phosphorescence all along – like underwater dancing
green fireflies stirred up by our swimming and treading water. And a blacked-out
new moon night produced some of the most vivid starry skies and galaxies I can
ever remember viewing. I think it’s safe to say that our guests are already
completely and utterly relaxed after a hectic summer of work in Whistler; they are incredibly deserving of this break.
Next stop – Mike and my one-time summer party stomping ground of Ios.
Interested to see our interpretation of the place more than a decade on. Watch
out!
