Meeting the Cyclades' infamous summer Meltemi

 

Having filled our dual 300 litre diesel tanks in Athens almost three weeks ago, the gauge is still reading full! Navigating a zigzag route through the sparsely laid out Cyclades group, we are taking full advantage of the prevailing northerly Meltemi wind. This comes as a welcome change from many hours and nautical miles spent motoring in the first half of our journey through the Eastern Mediterranean – particularly back in Croatia. From broad beam reaches and close hauls to direct downwind sailing with our sweet Parasailor – we are finally learning the capabilities of our Lagoon 440 catamaran. Which is regularly averaging 8 nautical miles (15 km p/hr) in 20 to 25 knots of wind. Despite missing our recently destroyed gennaker, dad couldn’t be happier with the boat’s performance and everyday we are building on our sailing experience!

The Cyclades are one of six island groups in Greece; the others being the Ionians, Dodecanese, Sporades, Saronic Gulf Islands and North Eastern Aegean Islands. Yet the Cyclades is easily the most visited and iconic. If you come to these particular Greek Islands not really knowing what to expect – as Mike and I did way back in 2002 and mum also did just this past month – you’d likely conjured up images of tropical trees or at least some greenery and island lushness. Though you’d be in for a surprise as the Cyclades are as rocky and desolate as they come. And at this time of summer when there hasn’t been a drop of rain for months – there are dust bowls everywhere whipped up by the constant Meltemi winds and only hardy flora such as bougainvillea, cactus, olive and tamarisk trees survive through the season. Yet what you will find are mesmerizing cubism whitewash buildings – with their thick concrete render and limestone wash, blue doors and shutters – purposefully constructed to sustain the battering winds and provide reprieve in the searing summer sun. More so they create a dramatic scene as they clamber in clusters up the hillsides, with narrow winding alleyways, stone paths painstakingly outlined with white paint, dispersing in often a confusing spider web of directions and stairs inviting you to explore and be lost. And always, at the highest crest so as to be closest to God, quietly sits one or three magnificent whitewash, dome-roofed churches. Despite the relentless, exhausting wind and dusty barren landscapes, the fascinating Cyclades are one-of-a-kind and like nowhere else on Earth.

 

 

This past week we’ve relished in some comfortable sailing conditions of 15 – 25 knots on or behind the beam. It makes us smile to be finally fulfilling the ‘sailing’ element of this cruiser lifestyle on a consistent basis. Though I am quickly reminded of our first week in the Cyclades when we were hastily introduced to the notorious Meltemi! Popping east out of the Saronic Gulf and off Cape Sounion into the northern most Cyclades Islands, we were instantly met with the steepest of seas (3 – 4 metres) and strongest sailing winds (gusting to 35 knots) that we’d experienced in our six-month relationship with finally my darling. To say I personally wasn’t anxious would be a lie. I was having kittens! We sailed a broad beam reach, with rolling swell and white caps knocking our portside and accompanying heavy spray drenching us on the upper bridge deck. Whilst dad and Mike were at ease (and mum’s chosen spot to ride out days like this is curled up in bed) – I was holding on tight with clenched teeth. Though I am trying my best to accustom myself with such conditions if I’m ever going to earn the right to call myself a sailor!

After three wind-swept hours we reached the welcomed calm of a protected bay on Kea Island, where we rested for two days before heading on an ambitious northeast close haul sail for Andros Island. Upon hitting some heavy confused seas between islands, wind swell having travelled a long distance uninterrupted from the north; we decided to fall away from our intended heading, sailing further southeast towards the bottom of Andros Island and onto the only sufficiently protected port at the southeast end of Tinos Island. We had been warned by the Greek Pilot Guide (our bible) that the leeside of certain islands suffered from a katabatic wind effect, where the northern Meltemi speeds up down the face of the southern facing shores. Hoping to escape the uncomfortable sea swell and find calmer waters behind the islands, we were still taken by surprise by the gale force 40 – 45 knots (80 km/phr) winds screaming unpredictably down the eroded mountainside. Wholly shit!

Already with three reefs in the mainsail, amongst howling wind we quickly dropped the remaining mainsail and furled the genoa halfway in. With only a small triangle of genoa out we sailed the next two hours making around 8 knots speed over the ground in 35 – 40 knot, gusting 45-knot winds. Thankfully the ocean was now somewhat blown over, not adding another tricky dimension to the situation. 

 

Reaching our destination and struggling to reverse and maneuver the boat against the direct tail wind into the tiny Tinos port, we finally moored and breathed a huge sigh of relief (well I most certainly did anyway)! A planned three-hour journey turned into six and a half hours when we were forced to change headings, and then contend with the most testing conditions we’d seen yet. Subsequently Tinos port is where we sat out our first Meltemi ‘blow’. For a solid four days and nights that followed, wind in the port was recording a consistent Beaufort Force 8 or 30 – 40 knots, again gusting to 45. After seeing very little wind for the first half of our trip, it is amazing how quickly you can tire of strong relentless wind when your home is a boat. It can be draining!

Despite staying longer then we intended, the port of Tinos on Tinos Island was a vibrant, bustling Greek port to be stuck in. Interestingly this island is the centre of Greek Orthodox religion in the region. Back in 1822 a sacred icon of the Virgin Mary was found on the site where the church of Panagia Evangelistria has since been constructed. The Virgin Mary is believed to have healing powers, attracting mass pilgrimages to the island several times each year. We just missed the Feast of the Assumption pilgrimage by one week, though at any time of year people can be seen crawling on their hands and knees pushing long candle offerings up a specially carpeted strip running the full length of the steep road and leading to the church! 

 

As twenty-one year-olds back in 2002, Mike and I worked a summer season on the Greek party island of Ios. We look forward to visiting there in about two weeks time for a nostalgic walk down (a blurry) memory lane! Though we knew Ios was always overshadowed by the granddaddy hedonism haunt of Mykonos. Having not made it there back then, we were very keen to see what all the fuss was about. One of the two most famous isles in all of Greece (second to Santorini), Mykonos is seriously touristy and commercialized, but you can’t come all this way and not visit for yourself.

Firstly living up to its reputation as one of the windiest islands in the Cyclades, when we finally decided to make a break for it from Tinos port, we sailed the short one and half hour leg in 30 to 35 knots and under genoa foresail only. We then moored alongside the still unfinished Mykonos marina fighting against similar gusts off the dusty hillside.    

Mykonos old town ‘chora’ is picture postcard perfect and exactly what comes to mind when you invoke images of the Greek Islands. Think sugar cube shaped whitewash buildings, colourful doors and shutters, a labyrinth of narrow laneways, windmills, a countless number of churches, restaurants, hopping bars, sea vistas, the finest shopping boutiques seen since landing in the Med and diverse accents and languages of an international clientele. We first visited the old town by day, when it was relaxed, uncrowded and sundrenched. By night the narrow streets are shoulder-to-shoulder well into the wee hours of the morning as the masses descend from their all-day beach sun worshipping.  

 

Dad, Mike and I again hired scooters, as Mykonos’ beaches are many, varied and widespread. Plus it’s where all the daytime action happens! Riding around on crappy, abused 50 CC rental scooters was intense! Our scooter lost the front brake mid-trip and dad’s would lift the front wheel off the ground when the power band cut in. But primarily due to hectic traffic with roundabouts and intersections where anything goes, difficult to follow road signage, potholes, no shoulders dropping sharply off to gravel, blind corners and consistent, impatient overtaking games. One would not want to have more than a couple of beers and try to navigate the roads, as no doubt many do after a boozy day at the beach or nightclubbing. A pair of fresh, bloodied thongs (flip flops) moved to the curbside of a busy intersection reminded us that road carnage must be an everyday occurrence on this chaotic island. Out of every fifty scooter and quad-bike riders we passed, only one would be wearing a helmet (and always thongs, bare chests and bikini tops) and that is no exaggeration!

Fortunately the island is also well serviced by public buses, so one could avoid tackling the crazy roadways should they choose. We came across some beautiful, though busy, fine sandy beaches with calm clear waters – many family friendly. Though the infamous all-day party beaches of Paradise and Super Paradise were heaving with bronzed almost naked bodies, sunbeds and umbrellas, posers and people watchers, DJs tunes pumping and G-string clad go-go dancers. Mykonos is also famously a gay hotspot, and whilst not as overt as I expected, there were plenty of toned fine specimens sporting a fashionable array of speedos and euro shorts. Whilst I can not party like I once did and the past six months cruising have coaxed us into a relaxed sedate mood; for those coming here seeking a wild good time, Mykonos would not disappoint.    

Party all day. Rest. Party all night. Repeat.  

 

Another benefit of mooring stern-to the small town quays in Greece’s many island ports – apart from having the best view in town for little to no extra cost – is sitting back and observing the Greek way of life. When first arriving at a new port about mid afternoon it would appear that there was a massive oversupply of cafes, bars and restaurants – with hundreds of empty seats and barely a sole around giving the appearance of a sadly deserted and struggling tourist area. Though come 8:00 or 9:00 pm the town comes alive with locals and tourists (mostly domestic Greek or Italian holidaymakers). There is barely a spare seat to be found! Given the tradition of shutting shop in the middle of the day and heading home for an afternoon nap or long lunch is still widely practiced, the Greeks are night owls. Eating a late dinner around 9:00 or 10:00 pm, then casually socializing with family and friends often well past midnight, every night of the week. And that includes children of all ages; here there seems to be no such term as ‘past your bedtime’ as well-behaved kids of all sizes zip around on bikes or sit wide-eyed in strollers well into the late night hours. What’s more the Greek’s after dark pursuits are civilized and low key. We’ve seen no sign of aggression or raised voices, and public drunkenness is frowned upon. Plus it’s a common sight to see groups in their early twenties sipping cold frappe coffees in a Saturday evening bar setting. Family is first priority in Greek culture and despite the country’s current economic woes that are likely aligned with their overly relaxed outlook; I feel we could all learn a thing or two from the Greeks to slow down, take life less seriously and make more quality time for family and friends.    

 

Ermoupolis on Siros Island is one such harbour front town that buzzed late with conversation and merriment. The capital of the Cyclades and a busy commercial port, we hung here for a few days over the weekend waiting for an engineering workshop to open on Monday morning so dad could source some final parts to completely rebuild an electric winch gearbox. Hand winching in these sailing winds is no fun! Mum and dad mingled with the locals and soaked up the atmosphere of a free summer performance – including a cute shadow puppet show that had the kids in stitches (if only we could understand Greek!) and a local export hip-hop trio with a proud cheering crowd. We helped tend the lines for an Aussie/Kiwi couple that moored alongside us – owned by the sweetest pair Zana and Brian on their own adventure of a lifetime aboard their new 48' Fontaine Pajot catamaran ZeeBee. Zana is originally from Manly, Sydney and Brian a champion-racing skipper from Auckland. Their smiles were infectious as we shared stories and we’d be delighted to cross paths again out there.  

 

Yet another memorable anchorage was Livadhi on Serifos Island. Where for the first time ever we struggled to get the anchor dug in, which is essential given the strong Meltemi gusts that infiltrate even the most protected southern bays. It took seven attempts in three different spots along the wide bay, after unsuccessfully aiming for the odd, small sandy patch and constantly pulling up a forest of weed or too-soft mud. Our friends on Dominos also landed in Livadhi on the same afternoon – though tracking their own route through the Cyclades we may see them again in a few islands time. The imposing ‘chora’ main/old town climbing up the rocky hillside high above our anchorage was sensational. Taking a local bus up and walking back down, the traditional Greek village sat sturdy on a blustery yet dramatic craggy mountainside. We just adore these quaint townships!  

 

Next sailing south and downwind to Milos – a very comfortable Parasail sailing day with a reduced 15 – 18 knots and flat seas – the calmest weather we’d seen in three weeks since passing through the Corinth Canal. The renowned 130-100 BC arm-less Venus de Milo marble statue of Aphrodite, the goddess of beauty and love, was found by a peasant farmer on this very island in the late nineteenth century. The arms were apparently lost in a skirmish over ownership and have never been located. One of the most famous ancient Greek sculptures, the Venus de Milo has since lived in the Louvre, Paris for over 100 years.  Our overnight port of Adamas on Milos was another spot that came alive on dusk. Here I attempted to recreate the national dish of moussaka with a side of Greek salad. It took all of the 2.5 hours to prepare as the receipe called for, and despite looking the part, I must seek to uncover the secret touch of Nonna's Greek kitchen! The next day sailing around Milos and neighbouring Kimolos Island uncovered some gorgeous bays for swimming, colourful fishing villages with upstairs for living and the downstairs boat shed, plus a kangaroo rock! 

We are currently on the southern end of Sifnos Island and will shortly make our way onto Antiparos and Paros. Super excited to soon be welcoming our next guests – our very dear friends Jay and Dee from Whistler, Canada. Jay is Mike’s best friend from high school and was his best man at our wedding last year. We are stoked to be sharing part of the adventure with them!

Until next time – much love from us all and hope life is treating you well.