Saturday 30 March 2013

Happy Easter with love











Happy Easter to our dearest family and friends all over the world! We too are enjoying a looonnng weekend and the beginning of Spring. No chocolate eggs or bunnies for the first time in a lifetime – mainly due to the fact we haven’t seen any for sale here. Instead exists a far less commercial Easter and a local tradition I would have looked forward to more in my youth than chocolate. The gifting of new life – tiny chicks and ducklings bought at the markets and carried around by children with delight, in little brown boxes emitting a telltale cheep cheep. My inner child escaped that day at Split’s markets – I knew it was totally unrealistic – but desperately wanted to take my own home to the boat. In its place I was kindly gifted the cute yellow fuzz ball above.


Last weekend, two short travelling days brought us south from Sibenik here to sleepy Milna on the island of Brac (pronounced Brash). We’ve spent the last seven nights in the sheltered marina and will do so until at least mid to late next week. 


We are berthed alongside another Lagoon 440 catamaran that is proudly flying both the Australian and boxing kangaroo flags. Along with our own newly hoisted Aussie flag – we’ve been told it’s a rare sight to see one, let alone two, Aussie boats sailing through these waters. Frank and Viv are from Gladstone in Queensland, and after lots of research also bought a Lagoon here in Croatia like dad has done, yet twelve months earlier. They have lived onboard for the past year, apart from a trip home to Gladstone to avoid the harsh Europe winter and enjoy the arrival of a new grandchild. Frank and Viv have spent their lives around boats – building and sailing them – and have lovingly and expertly customized so many elements of their Lagoon catamaran.  Dad has benefited greatly from their experiences and over the coming months will take the opportunity to have Frank’s fabricator (who is based in the northern capital Zagreb) replicate some of his modifications for fitting on our boat. Along with several shared sunset drinks, dinners, stories and laughs with them (this boat life is a social affair), Frank and Viv’s experiences in Croatia will help guide us, until we too become seasoned cruising yachties.

Milna is another postcard-perfect seaside Mediterranean village similar to what we’ll encounter all the way up and down the Croatian coast. The solid stone buildings here are built just above sea level with only a single-lane roadway between their doorsteps and dozens of little boats bobbing in the sheltered harbour. On recent full moon high tides, the water laps up over the outer edge of the roadway. Can’t really get much closer to waterfront living, except perhaps somewhere like Venice or Bora Bora! It’s a tiny community where everyone seems to know each other and we often get reserved looks, as it’s too early for foreigners to begin invading their peaceful off-season existence. Mike and I witnessed a funeral procession a few days ago, where the casket was rolled on a decorated silver trolley down the waterfront roadway with what could have been the entire town’s population falling in behind in a solemn march to the cemetery.


There are several prime waterfront located, yet derelict buildings with gorgeous, multi-century old facades perfectly intact, only with collapsed ceilings or completely void of floors and barely a few solid internal support beams remaining inside. A renovators’ dream.


We are currently awaiting some original paperwork from AMSA to arrive by courier to the marina reception – after which time we’ll head out to start exploring the neighbouring islands before slowly making our way north to the Croatian port of Rijeka. Dad needs to be present there with Customs for the opening of his shipping container next month (with trike and our other personal belongings inside). 


In the meantime there always seems to be plenty to do including measuring and designing a rigging system for lifting and stowing the 3.1M dingy on the bow, leaving the stern area clear for the trike on its floats. Some of the fabrication mentioned earlier includes the new trike davit system, all built in quality, polished stainless steel. Dad and Mike have just pulled Mike’s new folding bike apart for a freshwater bath and complete re-grease of every moving part after it spent five nights, fourty foot down on the seabed after falling in one night in a strong gust of wind. Unfortunately the bike may become a rust bucket sooner than we'd hoped! Between the bike and me finishing this post they’ve since repaired the bar fridge which stopped working (heaven forbid) yesterday. They are a handy pair this duo! The local Raymarine rep has also been onboard today to reconfigure the VHF radio with its Australian MMSI satellite identification number and to inspect our Raymarine integrated navigation system that needs some attention. Never (rarely) a dull moment. 


Until next time, best wishes and please enjoy an extra few chocolate eggs for us! 

Wednesday 27 March 2013

Video - departure day

Hopefully the first of many to share with you. And thanks to Mike for his first Go Pro edit. Enjoy!

Saturday 23 March 2013

Setting sail on the next chapter

Today, in my mind, was officially the first day of the next chapter. We are sailing! 
 
Less than two hours into our first sail with all crew on board and we were treated to a warm welcome dance on our bow by a pod of three local dolphins! They were massive, sleek mammals and we could hardly believe our luck. Mesmerized for the first few minutes, but I managed to grab my camera in time for one successful photo. Unfortunately Mike was not quick enough to recover the buried Go Pro from our downstairs cabin. We'll have to keep the Go Pro camera in closer reach for future opportunities – plus buy a pole accessory for some possible underwater angles perhaps?

The boat went back in the water on Wednesday afternoon after twelve days on the hardstand due to half that time lost with weather delays. Already well stocked as we’d shopped up a storm and moved everything on board during those twelve days; she immediately feels like home. For anyone who was concerned, we certainly aren’t roughing it. Being a catamaran we have a hull each which provides some personal space, there are three cabins and three bathrooms, a flat screen TV (xbox enroute in the shipping container), stereo system including external speakers, two fridges, deep freezer, gas stove and oven, microwave, pressure cooker, fruit juicer (also enroute), clothes washing machine, dishwasher (though we plan to remove for more pantry space), water maker, internal heating and air conditioning, a dive tank fill compressor and last but not least an ice maker! Some purest mono hull sailors would apparently scoff at the luxury, but we are here to cruise the Mediterranean at a leisurely pace. Might as well do so with some creature comforts. 

Sailing today with a light breeze was a relaxed 5-7 knots with both main and foresail up. Mellow compared to the previous day when the guys reached 10-12 knots in stronger northerly winds travelling from Murter to Sibenik (whilst mum and I drove the rental car down to be returned). Today we sailed (and then motored when the wind dropped right off) about 30 km south down the coast from Sibenik to a protected bay alongside Vinisce, another sleepy Croatian village. Mum has claimed her position on the starboard bow seat - similar to what she enjoyed on our Fiji ladies sailing day - just with plenty of extra layers of clothes at present! From here she had the perfect vantage point to first spot the friendly dolphins. No sign of a queasy belly from mum today so we are off to a good start. 

Catamarans are pretty easy to sail I'm told, but there is still lots to understand about the boat's sails, rigging, maneuverability and workings of the equipment on board. Although dad has never owned a sailboat as such, he has saltwater running through his veins and constantly impresses me with his endless wealth of knowledge. Mike having taken a two-day crash sailing course in Sydney is taking to it like a fish to water and will be a highly capable first mate. Together they are constantly troubleshooting as they familiarize with the mechanics of the boat, equipment and electronics. Including working through and re-labelling wiring diagrams, switches and valves that were all marked in German. I am quietly proud of my hubby and confident dad is grateful for his support. Soon enough Mike should be deserving of that anchor tattoo he’s long been talking about adding to his collection.  

I know there will be many uncomfortable weather days to come – but today was the first day I felt a total sense of calm and relaxation. This is what we came for. And Dad still can’t wipe the smile off his face.

BELOW: a glimpse of gorgeous Split - we look forward to returning soon!

One last look over Murter and Betina where we have spent the last two weeks - sweeping views from the local church perched high on the hill.   





Mike finally found himself a folding bike - handy transport when docking in a new village. Now just to locate a second for me ...


Our cozy new abode - port side stern cabin.


Looking smart and ready to get wet!




Final feast of mouthwatering 'steak and mushrooms' at our favourite Kezo Restaurant.



 And we are off!


 We gave mum one rope to look after ...


 ... quickly followed by four others that all starting running at the same time as we hoisted the main sail - hilarity ensued.






Whilst I tap away at the blog.. the others have hit the sack at 7:00 pm. "I've never been to bed this early before.." said mum as she disappeared downstairs with her book. This made me smile... and I've no doubt it won't be the last super early night.


Saturday 16 March 2013

Weather delays and naming days

Well I had been warned... the wonderful world of boating has and always will be dictated by the weather. Never plan too far ahead nor promise to be somewhere at a set time, as the weather forecast will always have the final say. Rain, wind, snow flakes... we've seen it all this week and so begins our intimate relationship and attachment to the constantly changing elements of Mother Nature. 

The boat still sits on the hardstand more than a week later with little work started on hull maintenance due to unfavourable conditions. A mix of sun and rain through the week (clear sunshine is required for the hull anti-fouling painting) followed by seasonal winter 'Bora' winds (in the vicinity of 60-70 knots or around 80 kms per hour) which brings intense northern winds off the snow covered coastal mountains. There were even a smattering of snow flakes swirling around outside last night. It's bloody freezing. Yes we sure came to Croatia nice and early!!

With warmer weather expected over the coming days - we are hopeful the three coats of anti-fouling paint will go on very soon and she'll be in the water mid week (fingers crossed). Of course, we have no time limits but are just keen to move into our new home. But first to test the diesel heaters are fired up and working efficiently!

To pass the days this week we've driven north to Zadar and south to the historic yet brilliant cosmopolitan city of Split. We plan to return to Split with the boat so will snap some photos at a later date. 

In a major step to make this boat our own - she has now been officially renamed - and the final task required to complete the Australian registration. Below: the end of an era for Herbert and Angelika's beloved Symphony - though many adventures lie ahead for the long-awaited new member of the Darling family!






Boom! A new Darling family member is born!

Dinner at Kezo Restaurant in Murter. With little (nothing) else open at this time of year, we've frequented Kezo almost every night for the past week. For two courses and beer/wine at $15-20 per head... it's hardly worth trying to prepare something ourselves in the little apartment. Coastal Croatia is heavily Italian influenced - we've had our fill of pizza, pasta, fish and squid.

Another road trip to fill some time - one hour's drive north to cool Zadar.

Bloody Queenslanders! Though with howling "Bora" winter wind storms blowing off the snow covered mountains it was barely a few degrees above zero these past few days.


Captain Morgan = $16. Malibu = $15. Bacardi = $19... and rum, bourbon, vodka are much the same... looks like the boat bar will be well stocked!



Tuesday 12 March 2013

A productive week

Dobrodosli (welcome)! Apologies for the slow first update. It has been a busy week and we’ve only just set up our own regular access to internet. Hope this finds you well wherever you are! 
 
Today we are back to Sibenik (pronounced Shib-e-neck) with another ‘to do’ list of essential tasks taking us a few steps closer to officially setting sail.

The trip here (via Singapore, Abu Dhabi and Frankfurt) was long and eventful – concluding with an extra bumpy decent and landing into stormy Split airport. With roughly 48 hours from Brisbane bed to Sibenik bed – whilst we were almost falling asleep in our pizzas on the night of arrival – managing to stay up till regular bedtime hours followed by a 10-12 hour snooze fest successfully defeated any jetlag. We are now officially 10 hours behind AEST (Sydney, NSW time) or 8 hours ahead of PDT (Vancouver, BC time). 

Since our arrival on Wednesday and up until Sunday – we’ve had the valued company of the original German boat owners – Herbert and Angelika. They’ve so generously given us their time to hand over and explain the usual functions as well as individual characteristics of this particular Lagoon. It’s obvious to see that she has been an integral part of their family for the past six years since they took delivery of her from the Lagoon factory in France and they’ve taken great care in ensuring her safe onward travel with us. Herbert and Angelika have a solid trust and love for the boat, which is very comforting. Hopefully we’ll meet up with them again in some picturesque Mediterranean bay later this summer once they take possession of their brand new 52’ Lagoon. 

This past week has been productive! The day after arrival dad, Mike and Herbert motored the boat from her berth in Sibenik three hours north to Marina Betina on the island of Murter as it has the only travel lift in the region wide enough to lift a Lagoon catamaran. The boat came out of the water Friday morning and is currently sitting on the hardstand with work now started on anti-fouling, engine maintenance and hull polishing. We are currently based in an apartment in Murter about fifteen minutes walk away from the shipyard. There have been several shopping trips back to Sibenik to stock up on typical household and kitchen supplies and now we are all connected with local Croatian phone numbers and a wireless hotspot providing internet access for up to five laptops at the same time.   

We also must extend a sincere thanks to Andreas (Andy) and Lana who own MARE Yachting in Sibenik, where they have grown their charter business from one boat to twenty-five boats in just three years. They have become close friends with Herbert and Angelika and seem to have adopted us and are providing valuable support and advice.

Sunday was our first free day for exploring. A winding one-hour drive south along the coast took us to the magical town of Trogir (pronounced Troggie) and its ancient fortress that dates back to the fourteenth century. We knew we were arriving to Croatia well ahead of the summer tourist season and despite majority of shops and cafés along the coast still securely closed for at least a few more weeks – we are loving the spacious sunny squares, deserted cobblestone laneways and wide peaceful harbour front strolls. At times it practically feels like we could be the only foreigners about as we mingle amongst the Croats who sit in simple cafes slurping tiny coffees and lighting one cigarette after another as they happily waste the day away.  

Looking ahead this coming week – we’ll be monitoring the boat maintenance; removing the existing signage and replacing with the newly Australian registered boat name “finally my darling”; visiting Raymarine to make some technical adjustments to the VHF radio to comply with AMSA requirements; and shopping for wet weather gear, personal safety harnesses, life jackets etc. We are also on the look out for some folding bicycles and still have some final purchases of essential bedding and supplies for the galley. Then we are all very much looking forward to moving in and sleeping onboard once the boat is back in the water later this week. 
 
So where to from there? Well we are not quite sure yet, but all the options look mighty inviting so watch this space!

First photo below was taken at a hand over dinner with previous owners Herbert (second on left) and Angelika (first on right) and new friends Andy (third on left) and Lana (second on right). Followed by the boat being lifted from the water at Betina Marina, Murter and beautiful scenery from a day trip to Trogir and Primosten. Croatia is certainly photogenic!