Our last destination report had us berthed in charming Mali Losinj’s central harbour. In the few weeks since
that stop, we’ve anchored in several peaceful bays including Molat and Dugi
Otok islands, and also lucked out with the weather for a stunning day to cruise
by the rocky yet somehow mystical national park islands of Kornati. We stopped
a night at Murter where the boat had been on the hardstand for two weeks back in
early March – just to dine on the infamous fish soup and steak and mushrooms from
Kezo Restaurant which we’d been dreaming of since we'd left. A few nights were also
berthed in Sibenik marina – where we’d originally taken possession of the boat.
Here we feasted on mussels and hunkered down an extra day to avoid forecast
wind gusts of sixty knots. It was then onto Primosten and Trogir – where we’d
also visited two months prior and the streets were practically deserted at the
time. But summer season is on the brink and the narrow cobblestone pathways
have quickly become a squeeze with tour groups and wooden live aboard gulet cruisers tied up at the promenades. After
toasting an early seventieth birthday celebration for our guest Aunty Robyn, we bid farewell as she departed (fittingly) with suitcase loaded in the
dinghy enroute to Split Airport.
Below is a collection of photos from the last
few weeks – including another new sail out from the wardrobe (a spinnaker), more
seafood feasts (that slab of caught-this-morning tuna sashimi coast the equivalent of about A$1.80 - wowza!) and Mike’s new fishing rod (hope to catch our own soon) toy.
Dad gave mum and I a slight fright when he decided
to take a much closer look at an abandoned Cold War submarine bunker. It’s understood they were located at strategic points of defence
for Tito’s powerful Yugoslav Navy and
could fit two submarines end-to-end. This was one of three bunkers along a
small stretch of coast on Dugi Otok. They would have once been camouflaged with
heavy nets covering the full height of the entrance and serviced by dozens of crew for maintenance and refuelling – evidence of
which could be seen from the network of rooms and chambers disappearing off
into the walls of the bunker. Whilst the camera flash helps here to show through
to the end of the tunnel – the naked eye could not see far past the eerie
darkness.
Amazing
how they still sit in perfect condition and free to inspect – not boarded up or
covered with no trespassing signage.
For the next few days we are now berthed at ACI Split Marina – a
short walk from the historical, walled town centre and palm lined promenade.
Dad has a number of maintenance projects and tradesmen lined up here –
including sail bag and bimini repairs, new
covers made for our BBQ and trike, electrical wiring of the solar panels and
additional fabrication deliveries from Vlad in Zagreb. He’s also part way
through adding shelving and re-arranging storage compartments around the boat. We
wonder when he’ll run out of projects and sit back to totally relax and enjoy
the fruits of his labour. But for those of you who know dad, well that will
likely never happen!
The most noteworthy anchorage recently was alongside the village of
Skradin – which required motoring seven kilmotres down Krka River and
under two bridges – one of which the mast only cleared by about six metres. It
appears nail bitingly close when witnessed from sea level, but no better way to
see the marginal clearance then from atop the mast in the boson’s chair –
Mike’s Go Pro footage to follow soon! Skradin is where swans visited regularly
(as per my last post) and the main attraction was the impossibly striking
cascades and waterfalls of Krka National Park located a few kilometres upstream.
Will leave you with a handful of the (far too many) photos taken from this enchanted
sanctuary.
With now only one month remaining on our Croatian visitor visas, we
will be sure to soak up all that we love about this beautifully diverse country
before moving onto Montenegro, Albania and then Greece.
